C2C Day One: St Bees to Cleator – Pebbles, Cliff tops, and a Cracking Start
Today marked the start of The Big Plod—and what a mix of emotions it brought. Saying goodbye to Janine, Sophie, and George at St Bees felt surprisingly heavy. Sophie, ever the adventurer, was buzzing with excitement for me. George was quieter, not quite sure why Dad was heading off on such a long walk, but he stood with me as I dipped my boots in the Irish Sea. Between the three of us, we chose pebbles for me to carry to the other side of the country. Those little stones will remind me of home as I push through some of the longer stretches to come!
The cliff tops out of St Bees were dramatic and wild, with the wind whipping up and the sea stretching forever beside me. I took a few photos, hoping they’d capture just a fraction of how it felt—like stepping into something ancient and humbling. There’d been thundershowers earlier in the day, but the rain held off for me. I started around midday and somehow, the clouds parted long enough to give me the gift of dry boots and clear views.
Along the way, I spotted a few of the iconic Coast to Coast signs. Let’s just say… Wainwright might not have been a fan of precision signage. They’ve got that charming, slightly wonky feel—some nailed up by someone’s garden fence, others peeking out behind nettles.
Just before reaching Cleator, I had one of those unexpected, charming moments. I passed a local cricket ground, and a match was in full swing—cricketers in their whites, the occasional clap from the sidelines, the crack of leather on willow. It was such a perfect slice of English village life, and for a few minutes, I just stood and watched, grinning. It felt like the most English way possible to enter the Lake District.
Ten miles in, I made it to Cleator and tucked into the Ennerdale Country House Hotel for the night. My legs feel good, feet holding up, and the training seems to have paid off so far. I’ll head to the bar shortly for a celebratory drink—something local, if I’m lucky—and toast day one.
Tomorrow, the Lakes begin in earnest, and the first of a few larger elevation changes!!