C2C Day four - Borrowdale to Grasmere: Stairway to Squelch

The day started with a bang—well, more of a thud. Within the first ten minutes, I planted my foot on what looked like a promising boulder… which promptly betrayed me. No grip at all. Down I went, right onto my side. Not the most confidence-inspiring start to a day of steep climbs and slippery paths, but thankfully no harm done. And by the time I reached Grasmere, I’d more or less shaken it off—both physically and mentally.

The route from Borrowdale to Grasmere took me up the high track over Lining Crag and Greenup Edge, and while the views were a bit shy behind the clouds, the challenge definitely wasn’t.

The climb itself was no joke—steep, rocky, and in places more stream than path thanks to the days of rain. I had wet socks within the hour, and by the top, they were more sponge than fabric. But hey, that’s what you sign up for on the Coast to Coast, right? At least some of the new flagstone sections, part of the National Trail upgrades, offered a bit of relief—a taste of future-proofed footing in an otherwise squelchy landscape.

I met a fellow walker today—a 19-year-old named Dan, who’s heading to Manchester Metropolitan University in the fall to study Human Geography. We chatted our way up the climb, stopping a few times to catch our breath and admire the waterfalls tumbling down Greenup Gill. Dan explained what Human Geography was—something I hadn’t even heard of before—along with his recent trip to Asia. Trail conversations are a great reminder that everyone’s on a different kind of journey and they certainly help make the hike feel shorter.

The weather didn’t do us many favours—low cloud, light drizzle, and visibility that could be described as "suggestive." But when we dropped down from Greenup Edge, the valleys started to open up, and I managed to grab a few photos where the landscape revealed itself just enough to make it all feel worth it.

Eventually I made it into the centre of Grasmere—a proper storybook village—and rewarded myself with a pint and a plate of steak and ale pie at Tweedies. Mash, mushy peas, the lot. Everything a weary walker could want.

Physically? Yeah, I'm starting to feel it now. Left thigh’s a bit tight, lower back’s aching, and my legs are issuing quiet threats for tomorrow. But emotionally? Still all in. There’s something really grounding about this—about the mud, the mist, and the people you meet along the way. 

Onwards to the next stage.