Cotswolds Way - Day 3
After yesterday’s doubts and the soul-refreshing arrival into Winchcombe, today brought fresh legs, perfect weather, and one very steep surprise.
I set off again around 10am — no coffee this time. I couldn’t be bothered doubling back into Winchcombe to hunt one down, so today’s hike began on zero caffeine. A bold strategy. Fortunately, the skies were once again on my side — warmer temperatures and a steady breeze made for ideal walking conditions.
I couldn’t help but think of Lawrence, the cyclist I met at the White Hart Inn. He told me that when he walked the Cotswold Way years ago, he was struck by the amount of time spent walking under trees. That started to become very evident right away — leaving Winchcombe, I followed a tree-lined road south before veering right onto the trail proper.
Passing the village cricket field, I was almost disappointed there wasn’t a game on — I’d have happily parked myself at the clubhouse for a mid-morning break.
But the path had other plans. It climbed. Hard. Not quite steep enough to show up in red on my walking app, but definitely enough to fire up my calves and thighs within 30 minutes. By the time I reached the top, I was dripping with sweat and frothing slightly at the mouth — a real picture of hiking grace.
I thought this was supposed to be a gentle roll through countryside, not a surprise audition for a hill-running club! Still, at the top, the pain was rewarded. A lovely panorama of Winchcombe stretched out behind me — a great place to catch my breath and snap a photo.
Onward again, and now meeting more hikers than dog walkers, I made my way towards Belas Knap Long Barrow — try saying that five times fast. I’d nearly written it off as a missed opportunity, thanks to some confusing advice from a certain AI assistant who didn’t specify which side of Winchcombe the barrow sat on. Thankfully, it appeared before me like an ancient secret.
This burial mound, built around 3000 BC, is a wonderfully preserved Neolithic site, and I spent some time walking its perimeter. The drystone walling was incredibly satisfying to look at — something about craftsmanship that’s lasted 5,000 years really puts your aching legs in perspective.
After leaving the barrow, I descended into more tree-covered corridors, just as Lawrence had warned. Great for shade, not great for photos — though at one point, the foliage was so dense it felt like stepping through a wardrobe into Narnia. I half-expected to find Mr. Tumnus offering tea on the other side.
Around halfway, it was snack time: Revels. Now, this was a find. You can’t get them in Vancouver, and I spotted the last lonely packet at the Co-op in Winchcombe yesterday. For the uninitiated, Revels are a lucky dip of chocolate centres: raisin, orange crème, toffee, Galaxy Counters, and Maltesers. As a kid, this was peak excitement. You never knew what you’d get — but everyone agreed: just don’t end on orange. Worst-case scenario.
As I tucked into the Revels roulette, the path wound above Cheltenham, skirting a golf course. Not exactly the Cotswold dream — I found this part a bit dull, but did spot the Cheltenham racecourse from above, which was neat.
Just past the greens, I noticed a small sign pointing toward a memorial. I followed it and came upon a stone dedicated to an RAF bomber crew who crashed nearby. Reading their names and seeing their young ages hit hard. I took a moment on the nearby bench — a pause for reflection and respect.
The final stretch to Charlton Kings was mostly bracken and tree-lined roads. I startled a couple of deer, who bolted off before I could get a photo — but seeing them wild and free was a real moment of living the now.
As I neared my accommodation, I took a detour to speed things up. A tactical error. The slope was way too steep, and I ended up on my backside, sliding down the last bit of trail like a poorly prepared hiker in an action film. Lesson learned: sometimes the “quick way” just adds drama.
Tomorrow’s another day, another set of blisters waiting to form, and hopefully fewer unexpected gradients. But I’m still here, still smiling, and still pushing forward.
Onwards and upwards.
P.S. Did I mention I heard the steam train whistles a few times again today?!?