Cotswolds Way - Day 5

Today was one of the shorter Cotswold Way sections — just seven miles from Birdlip to Painswick — and honestly, one of the shorter blog posts too. Not because it was bad (sorry, people of Birdlip and Painswick), but because there’s only so much you can say when most of your walking is done under a leafy canopy with little in the way of grand views.

I started late — no need to rush when you’ve only got seven miles ahead — though my walking app later told me I’d averaged 3.6 miles per hour, my fastest section of the whole sabbatical. That surprised me, especially since there were a few sweat-inducing hills along the way.

Leaving Birdlip, I can’t say I was sad to see it in my rear-view mirror. It had been my rest day stop, which made sense distance-wise (around the halfway mark), but the village itself… well, let’s just say it’s not going to trouble the “Top 10 Cotswold Villages” list any time soon. The pub I stayed in? ‘OK.’ The food? ‘OK.’ The staff? Also ‘OK.’ If I were a travel site reviewer, the last two days would get a solid, dependable three stars.

Weather-wise, though, it was another winner — not too warm, a few friendly clouds, and generally perfect walking conditions. The route was busier today, particularly around Cooper’s Hill, home of the famous annual cheese rolling race. There were quite a few day hikers out, plus a couple of horses being walked, which made a nice change of scenery.

Climbing up the side of Cooper’s Hill was a real slog — steep enough that when I reached the top I took a quick video, partly to prove the incline, partly so future-me can remember just how much “sweat” was dripping off me. The people who fling themselves down that hill after a wheel of cheese every year? Completely mad. And that’s before you even factor in the nettles at the bottom. I’ll pass, thanks.

Cheese Race Factoid: The Cooper’s Hill Cheese Rolling event is held every spring and sees competitors hurl themselves down the incredibly steep slope in pursuit of a 7–9lb wheel of Double Gloucester cheese. First to the bottom wins the cheese — though most entrants are more concerned with surviving the tumble. One of the race’s local legends, Steve Brain, has won it an incredible 18 times. There’s even a bench on the hill dedicated to him, which I passed — a suitably solid memorial to a man who clearly didn’t mind risking life and limb for dairy glory.

After that, it was more tree cover, followed by a stretch alongside yet another golf course. Not my favourite terrain, but just before leaving the course, the view from the 17th hole was good enough to warrant my one panorama photo of the day.

A little more under-canopy walking, and suddenly Painswick appeared. I arrived early enough to wander the village, and within minutes I wished I’d taken my rest day here instead of Birdlip. Painswick has a shop, a couple of pubs, the famous Rococo Gardens (not my cup of tea, so I skipped them), an art gallery, and an information centre.

Still, no more rest days are planned — accommodation is already booked for the remainder of the walk — so it’s an early dinner for me tonight. Tomorrow’s stretch will be a bit longer, and my accommodation is unfortunately a mile off the route, so I’ll be adding a bonus plod to the day (Yes that's me trying very had to put a positive spin on it!).