Cotswolds Way - Day 8
The UK heatwave forecast was in full swing today — and the old phrase “mad dogs and Englishmen” seemed very fitting.
I had a light breakfast and hit the trail around 9:30. The sun was already warm but still comfortable, with just enough breeze to keep things pleasant. My first stop was the local Shell garage for a Cotswold Way passport stamp. Just two more stamps to go before I can call this trail fully “collected” — but that’s getting ahead of myself.
Before even leaving Wotton-under-Edge, I took a short detour thanks to the locals I’d met yesterday. They suggested I check out the Perry & Dawes Almshouses, and I’m glad I did!
🏛 Perry & Dawes Almshouses Factoid: Built in 1638 by clothiers John Perry and John Dawes, these almshouses were endowed to provide accommodation for six elderly men of the parish. They’re still in use today, preserving both the charitable purpose and the charming 17th-century architecture. The complex also includes a small chapel situated within the inner courtyard, which was part of the original design so the residents could worship without leaving the grounds — a thoughtful detail that adds to the sense of quiet dignity the buildings still hold.
Back on the route, I was immediately hit with a steep climb. My calves and knees were united in protest, though my left Achilles — usually the loudest complainer — stayed strangely quiet. Perhaps it’s given up on me entirely.
Yesterday and today combined will have me climbing over 3,800 ft and descending 3,100 ft. No wonder my hips and legs are filing daily complaints.
Once back on top of the escarpment, the air was heavy and close. Even on the flats, sweat was dripping onto my glasses. I promised myself I wouldn’t complain about the weather, but secretly, a few degrees cooler would have been nice.
A few miles later, I was walking in what I can only describe as a gully — a shaded dip in the land, likely shaped by old water run-off. It was cooler, darker, and at one point a fallen tree gave a perfect ghost-train prop vibe.
Then I turned a corner and my heart sank: another monument. I braced for more steps, but after a quick recce, I couldn’t see a way up and moved on.
🪨 Somerset Monument Factoid: The monument I spotted was the Somerset Monument, built in 1846 to commemorate Lord Edward Somerset, a distinguished cavalry commander in the Napoleonic Wars. Standing 100 feet tall, it’s normally accessed by special arrangement — so no steps for me today, mercifully!
Around 1pm, the heat was full-on. My pace slowed, but my interest perked back up when I reached Horton Camp, an Iron Age hill fort.
It must have been a hill fort theme day, because after passing through a few more villages, I reached Old Sodbury Hill Fort — also Iron Age, with commanding views over the Frome Valley, Severn Vale, and the distant Welsh mountains. The Romans later adapted it during their expansion, adding to its already impressive earthworks. The combination of inner wall, moat, and outer wall was striking — you can see why it’s been strategically important for centuries.
The last few miles were a bit frustrating. I switched apps to find my accommodation and took a wrong turn, adding an extra mile to my already 12-mile day. But what’s one more mile at this point?
Tomorrow should be an easier stage — a warm-up for the final big day into Bath, where I’ll meet up with family and bring The Big Plod to its finish line.